Jean-Marie Chaland
Jean-Marie Chaland, together with his wife Ewelina, run this 9-hectare estate in Viré having taken over the reins from Jean-Marie’s father 17 years ago. The vines have never seen a synthetic chemical since his grandfather planted them just after World War II, and are all Certified Organic. The Domaine vineyards include 23 different parcels of vines, and 75% of them are more than 50 years old. The clay-limestone soils here help give structure and lift to the Mâcon fruit. Harvest is by hand and vinification uses only natural yeasts and minimal added sulphites.
Where and what is Viré-Clessé?
Viré-Clessé is a relatively new appellation in the Mâconnais region of southern Burgundy and the most recently created of the region's communal titles. Viré-Clessé wines are produced exclusively from the Chardonnay grape variety. The classic Viré-Clessé wine offers aromas of acacia flowers and exotic fruits, with the best examples having a mineral, flinty undertone known as ‘pierre a fussil’ (gunflint).
Jean-Marie has a beautiful sense of calm and thoughtfulness about him, happy to split his time evenly between work in the vineyard and winery, his young family, a passion for martial arts, and renovating his historic property 5km from the winery. We offer three wines from this domaine, all represent their respective terroir beautifully.
Wines Imported
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Grown at the northern, Thurissey/Montebellet, end of the appellation, a mix of younger and older limestone formations, in the lieux-dits of Verchère and l’Epinet, on the slope with some flint in the limestone. 50+ year old vines. Made in a mix of barrels, foudres and a little tank, bottled in July. A little more depth of colour, a softer riper orchard fruit, a little more body. Fleshy behind. Clearly a Viré-Clessé rather than a Mâcon, with very good length, almost sensual across the palate, yet with a more mineral finish. Very promising. Jasper Morris MW
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This plot, in the middle of Viré, used to belong to the monks of Cluny. They are in the upper part, which still has plenty of clay. Three quarters of the vines are 80 years old., and the wine has been made half in barrel and half in tank. Pale in colour, so I was not quite prepared for the immediate headiness of the nose, which then goes back into its shell. Less muscat but plenty of sunshine. The volume of fruit builds steadily towards the back, some yellow notes, impressive intensity, a structured wine which will need a little time yet. Jasper Morris MW.
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The holding consists of 0.30ha of old vines, another 0.15ha which they have recently planted, with more to follow this year, on a blue marl soil. All made in wood, bottled in November. Still just 13.5% alcohol though the last to be picked. Mid lemon yellow. Certainly, the bouquet offers a mix of slightly muscatty later harvested aromatics, though still with the proper chiselled Viré backbone. Quite sensual and definitely with ripe citrus and apricot aromatics as you get towards the finish. Confit citron for me, Jean-Marie offers hay and ginger. Fascinating complex wine, I can see the Clos du Buc more on its own than with food. Jasper Morris MW
